408 Stroker Engine Build Up
Last
month we talked about whether to rebuild or replace
an engine. We also talked about decisions that
need to be made. I am currently building a 408
stroker engine for my 1998 Dodge Dakota which
is currently equipped with the 318 5.2L engine.
A
stroker engine increases the stroke of the engine.
This makes a smaller engine deliver more power
and torque. Many engines can be stroked including
4 cylinders. Increasing the stroke of an engine
is as easy as installing a new crankshaft. The
crankshaft as longer throws to increase the stroke.
The
first thing I did was searched for a starter engine.
I needed a Magnum 360 and all I really needed
was the block. Searching on eBay got me the block
I needed. I drove down to southern Indiana and
picked it up from Indiana Core. The block was
in great shape and included pistons, crank, rods,
cam, etc. I brought the block home and mounted
it on my engine stand. If you are doing this at
home, make sure to have a good engine stand. You
can get these pretty cheap. I picked mine up at
Harbor Freight Tools for about fifty bucks.
After
the engine was mounted on the stand, I removed
everything off of and out of the block. This can
get pretty dirty so make sure you have plenty
of towels. Also, if you plan on reusing any of
your parts, make sure to mark them so you won’t
loose them. I am not going to reuse any of the
parts from the old engine so most of it was tossed.
After
the engine was disassembled, I loaded it back
into the truck and took it to the machine shop.
I had the machine shop clean the block. The shop
soaked the block in a caustic solution heated
to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This cleans away the
rust, dirt, grease, etc. Next, the shop checked
the block for cracks using a process called Magnafluxing.
This process consists of using a high-powered
electromagnet to magnetize the block. Colored
iron powder is sprinkled over the block. If there
are any cracks, the iron powder is drawn into
the cracks to make them visible. Luckily, my block
did not have any cracks.
After
the block is cleaned and checked for cracks, the
main bearing bores where checked for alignment.
This is done using a micrometer. My block was
just fine. If the main bearing bores are out of
alignment, then a process called align-boring
or align-honing would be used. Next, the head
deck surfaces are checked for flatness. Again,
mine was fine, but if not, the head deck surfaces
would have to be fixed. This process is called
“decking”. Basically it mills the
head surface until it is flat.
The
next step was to bore the cylinder to .030”
over. This process uses a machine with cutting
wheels to remove material inside the cylinder
walls to fit bigger pistons. This process can
also be used to remove piston sleeves on some
engines or to prepare for new sleeves. Make sure
that when ever you have the engine bored and honed
that the machine shop uses torque plates. Torque
plates simulate the clamping force of the head
and will give you the best finish on your cylinders.
Once
the engine was bored, it was time to cut notches
in the block. On a stroked engine, notches must
be cut in to the block so the rods to not hit
the block. When you increase the throws on the
crankshaft, the rods will swing out further. This
should also be done before the cylinders are honed.
The
last step was to hone the cylinders. This process
is done honing stones. The hone creates a crosshatch
pattern on the cylinder walls. Make sure the shop
uses a honing machine and not a drill with a hone
attached.
Check
back next month as we talk about assembly of the
stroker. As always, if you have any questions,
please contact me below.
CYA
next month!
Vincent Wright
sales@kmwperformance.com
http://www.kmwperformance.com
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