KP COMPONENTS
WATTS LINK INSTALL


Text, Install and Photos by Toby Mosholder

So you got that new 4-link installed, you’ve scrapped up the extra change for the big bad boy bags and air management system. Countless nights getting everything installed and the first time you hit the switch you notice your rear end shift about half a foot…WTF?? You were expecting it to hop. Your heart starts to race, you get enough courage to hit the switch and lower the truck back down to the ground. The rear end went right back into place.

There is no need to go kill the installer. This is very common with 4 link suspensions. The perfect cure for this problem is the Watts Link from KP Components. www.kpcomponents.com

So, this month’s article is how to install the new KP Components Watts Link on an 88-98 Full-size Chevy pickup. To start; I sent this kit off to get nickel plated so it would match my 4 links bars. We removed the bed next; I believe it is not necessary to do this in all cases. It can be done easily on most trucks with the bed on. I installed an 8 piece c-notch at the same time: this is why the bed is off the truck.

Step 1: The first step is to lay all the parts out and check against the hardware list to make sure all pieces were accounted for.

  

Step 2. Start assembling the links with the heims joints and jam nuts. It would be helpful to use anti-seize compound on ALL threads in this installation. Install the jam nut on to the heims joint then thread the heims joint into the link bar. Twist the Heim’s joints into the link bars till there are only 4 threads showing on the Heim’s joint. Do this to both link bars.

Step 3. Install the center link into the center section. Insert the two urethane bushings into the center link. Now using the ½”x3” bolt, 2-  ½” flat washers and one ½” steel lock nut bolt the center link to the center section with the nut closest to the differential cover and tighten.

Step 4.  Install the center section to the rear end. Hold constant pressure against the differential cover to minimize fluid loss.**You may want to ask for an extra hand with this step** Discard the original bolts and then place the center section to the differential cover. Make sure that the brake line relocation hole is facing up and to the drivers side. Now install the 10 –  5/16 x 1 ½” bolts with a locking washer and flat washer on each bolt supplied in the kit.

Step 5. Install one end of each link bar to the center link using two ¾”x 2 ½”, four ¾” flat washers and two ¾” lock nuts. Then bolt the frame brackets to the other end of the link bars using the ¾”x 2 ½” bolts, two ¾” flat washers, and two ¾” steel locking nuts.

Step 6. Now you will turn your attention the brackets that attach to the frame. Depending on your personal frame set up. There are several ways to attach the brackets to the frame. We will use the 8- piece step notch installation on this one.

First position the rear end on the stands to proper ride height. (This is height the vehicle will be at during normal driving)

Now transfer a mark onto the inside plates of the step notch ½” below the top edge of the frame rail. Place the driver’s side bracket up against the frame using the marks to line up the bracket:

 

Move the bracket back and forth until the link bar is parallel with the rear end and clamp into position. Now mark the two holes and drill 1/2” holes. Bolt the driver’s side bracket into place using two ½” x 1 ¼” bolts, ½” flat washers and ½” lock nuts. (I chose to weld mine in) Now repeat this process on the passenger side.

Remove the bracket that held the brake line tee to the differential and attach it to the watts link bracket using one 5/16” x 1 ¼” bolt, 5/16” flat washers, and 5/16” locking nut.

Step 7. To align the rear end in the frame rails you will measure from the step notch to the backing plate on the rear end. Compare these measurements from both sides and determine how far the rear end will need to be moved. Once that distance is found have a friend measure from the step notch to the backing plate like before, and slowly turn BOTH link bars until the same distance is achieved on each side. Tighten all four jam nuts. Now cycle the suspension and make sure there is no binding any where.

 


Gauge Correspondant
Toby Mosholder

Tools needed:
½”impact
1 1/8” wrench
1 1/8” socket
½” socket
¾” wrench
Small level
Measuring tape
Marker
Jack
6 jack stands
4- Clamps
Welding magnets
Welder
Anti-seize compound


 

:::::: Gauge Network :::::::
Gauge Store
Slamology 2005
TopImportSites.com
EliteTop100.com
EliteTop50.com

Advertiser Info